MOOG K6654 Steering Pitman Arm for Chevrolet Silverado 1500

I am happy with the fit and finish of the Moog part, but time will tell. I am mostly an OEM parts type of guy and I'm really picky about repair parts in general.Anyway, I thought I would give a couple of pointers to those installing this Pitman Arm on GM vehicles. I remove the skid plate and sway bar (good time to check/replace the bushings while you are there). This gives you plenty of room to work. The challenge replacing the pitman arm is that there is a cross member on GM trucks and SUV's that prevent you from using a standard pitman arm puller. Even if you can get a puller on there many times they are stuck so tight that the puller will break. Some sites are advising people to remove the entire steering box to get a puller on there, big time waster. Or use heat, a torch, etc. and your steering box seals will be destroyed. I don't do any of that.I use a cutoff wheel on an air grinder and CAREFULLY make a cut on the side of the pitman arm opposite the actual arm at a 45 degree angle almost through the pitman arm. You could also use an electric 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel if you don't have a pneumatic like this:http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840788-3-Inch-Air-tool/dp/B003G3009Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413520263&sr=1-1&keywords=pneumatic+cutoff+toolI make the cut at a 45 degree angle so that the wheel has more clearance and less chance of hitting the steering box. Do this very slowly, you are trying to make a cut that comes within about 1/8" inch from the internal splines on the steering box without touching them. Take your time, really take you time, you don't want to buy a new steering box. Did I say take your time?:) When the cut is made take a large chisel and put it in the cut. Then smack it really hard with a mini-sledge. That will crack the rest of the pitman arm steel along the cut line. Then just hold the chisel at a downward angle and tap the pitman off. Even taking your time this is easily done in 15 min. There are plenty of stories of people spending hours trying to do this job. Then put just a light coat of water proof grease on the steering box splines for reassembly and you're done. I hope this helps.

After 168k on my 2007 Classic 2500HD 4x4 Crew, my Pitman and Idler were too loose for an alignment. I decided to replace the inner/outer tierods and upper/lower ball joints at the same time, all Moog. The Pitman/Idler/tierods took about 3 hours with me having no previous experience doing this. There is a crossmember that prevented me from putting the Autozone puller on, but I found a much easier solution. Take a small angle grinder (I used a die grinder with a cutting wheel) and cut to within 1/8" of the spline, it took about 10 min. Then use an air hammer or chisel to split the metal. The Pitman then fell off, less than 15 min total effort and no need to move the steering box or bust your knuckles.The inner tie rods are tough to get off with the center link still attached. Since I was replacing the Idler too, I went ahead and popped both off, disconnected the dampler, and removed the center link. Then it was a breeze to replace the tie rods with the center in my bench vice. I measured the distance from the back of the tie rod nut to the center of the zerg fitting on the tie rods and adjusted the new rods to match this length (about 15" both sides), and my steering was straight enough to drive in for an alignment -- actually it pulled less than before the repairs.The hardest part of the whole job were the balljoints, those took the next afternoon and a really big breaker bar.I see a lot of people asking about 3 vs 4 spline. Mine was 3 spline and it's easy to see if you push up the bearing cup above the pitman arm, you should just be able to see the splines. From what I read, 4 splines are only on the 1500s and maybe vans.

Hard to remove the dammmmn old one. Absolutely need a remover and pb blaster.No issues with new one

Quality part not a fake... If you plan to replace this yourself be prepared to spend some time, the old one will not give in. Be sure to have a heavy duty puller, a serious cheater bar and some time. So if you need to replace this go out now and spray some penetrating oil on it right now. Not WD40 but some quality penetrating oil. I'll wait while you do that... This is one of the hardest part I have removed from various vehicles and I always want to get the torch out and cut it off. So be paitent use penetrating oil, take the time crank the puller until you think it will break. If you can manage while the pulleris mounted and it seems at max pull tap/hit the old pitman arm around where it mounts, this does help. On my H2 I had to drop the steering gear box, equaling very little leverage. It took a couple hours of beating and cranking and spraying and I noticed it slipped a 1/16 now it was on. Some friends watching the mayhem thought I was sure to have seriuos injuries from the force on the wrench and cheater bar and they were surprised nothing broke and equally surprised when it gave in. Good luck...

Quality of the product is fine.2003 3/4 ton duramaxWould just like to mention that the GM service manual says to change this part with the steering box on the bench, and after doing it with the steering box in the truck, I would recommend you pay someone to change it. Using a Lisle brand pitman puller, I let my 600 ft-lbs impact hammer for upwards of 15 minutes before I took the smallest cutting wheel I could find and cut as deep as I could into the arm. Even then the impact struggled to get the arm off. Not to mention that K-member is directly under the retaining nut so loosening 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the box to the frame and rotating it is the only way to get a socket on that nut; even then it is not on squarely. 6+ hour job with a small fortune in tools.

Perfect fit for 2001 chevy suburban 2500 with 3 spline.

Great price and direct fit.

Installed on our GMC 2500HD and it was a perfect fit and works great. We had very loose steering, and this solved the problem and seems much better quality than what was on there before.

Product as described and seems to be a worthy replacement in my 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE (classic). Price was great compared to local retailers that wanted almost double for the same mfg/part number.

Well built

I installed the Tie Rods (both ends), Pitman Arm, Idler Arm, and Idler Arm bracket on my 2006 Duramax. It was a big job, but I was able to accomplish having never done it before. The Moog parts are excellent and all fit to factory specs.You can review my video on the install on Youtube. Just look up my username and you shall find. (Search for: How to replace idler arm, pitman arm and tierods on a 2006 Duramax)