PCV Engine Valve Cover, Replace 11127552281 Compatible with BMW N20 N26 N51 N52 Engine E70 E82 E83 E90 E91 E92 E93-2008-2013 128i, 2007-2013 328i, 2008-2011 528i, 2007-2012 X3, 2007-2010 X5, More

Got this shipped and delivered in like a day, thank you! Really saved me in a bind.2010 bmw 328i 188k mile car developed idle issues, whistled like a pig, and overall symptoms pointed to this part of the aged valve cover. I've previously replaced the valve cover gasket, eccentric shaft gasket, plugs and coils, and the valvetronic motor gasket. Nothing else was left but this pcv membrane that I didn't even know existed. Thanks bmw!The part quality is excellent and it actually fits over the old valve cap really well (I used some sealing silicone and sort of hammered it down further using a mallet and block of wood to make sure an even fit).It's a pain to remove the built in to the valve cover pcv part. Used a Dremel and shaved off the plastic sticking out then made a cross shape cut, then use a screw driver hammer and pliers to peel the factory cap. The remaining surface will be actually pretty clean and ready for this new part. Let the car sit for a few hours to set the sealing silicone and then drove it and noticed an immediate improvement in throttle response, idle, and overall power and smoothness.Well worth the money. The dealer will tell you to buy a whole new valve cover and it will cost you big time. This part will extend your old valve cover life unless it's already horribly cracked elsewhere.

It worked great on my '08 BMW X5 3.0i (E70). This part saved me the expense of replacing the entire valve cover.First, I watched some YouTube videos to get a feel for the task at hand. Then I removed bthe plastic engine cover, cabin filter, cross brace, and two coils from back two spark plugs... to get good access to the old PCV valve. Then, I used a paint removal electric heat gun to heat the old part for several minutes in order to free the adhesive. Next used a large screwdriver to pry up on old one usig the valve cover as a fulcrum, and it finally popped off. I was careful to save the old spring for reuse on new part. I cleaned the joint area with carb cleaner and sand paper, making sure that all old adhesive was off the valve cover interface and made sure that the surface was smooth I test fitted the new part several times until right. Then, I used a 2 part epoxy and spread it evenly around the seat of new PCV unit and after positioning the spring I seated the new part firmly on the valve cover, tapping it down gently with the handle of the screwdriver, makingsure that it was seated all the way down. I let it sit and cure overnight. I reassembled everything else the next morning and tested it out. Engine ran great, and no more loud squealing noise.After inspecting the old diaphragm, I found it to be cracked, which was causing the squealing problem.Very satisfied. Took me a few hours, but this job saved me at least $1K in parts and labor.

this has cured my PTSD from the whistling and screaming previously endured. 😱 🤣even paid $500 to have a local shop perform the replacement. days later, sound returned. got to looking around to see what even done... the dang thing was teetering. he broke the clips, and didn't use any gasket maker or sealant.I used JB Weld High Temp for Plastics and placed a weight on top to prevent the inner spring from forcing it off. (key step) then the next day after that cured, went around the outside edge with Weldwood Contact Cement just for good measure. the sound returned briefly after initial drive. then silence since.don't be afraid to repair yaself. if I could, you could. Price and quality of product on point. happy. jason

This OEM PCV replacement worked well. Lined up correctly and installation went well.

I was a little worried after reading the reviews about how to install this part. Turns out it was easy and only took about 20 minutes. I started by drilling about ten 1/8” holes through the top of the old unit then gently broke it apart with a screwdriver. Sucked out the plastic shavings and broken pieces with a shop vac then used a little bead of “Right Stuff” quick set silicone in the groove of the new part. Pressed it in place by hand and was done.

Wouldn’t recommend

This part went in a 2009 BMW 328 I. I am not a BMW mechanic but this worked perfect. if your not a mechanic then don't buy this part thinking it just slides right in. You have to do some work to get this in. it is not an easy fix if you don't have the tools to make this part go in and work. part stores in my town wanted over 50 bucks for this part. The part i took out was worn out, the orange rubber was totally broken, the car made a high whistle sound when you revved the car up. I am a retired mechanic and not a BMW mechanic. As far as the car is concerned i would never buy one after seeing how this thing was engineered! The part i took out was the same exact part as this one i bought...

Second time purchasing, it lasted a little over 2 years before the same symptoms started back up: rough idle, loud whistling and oil consumption. I had already replaced the valve cover gasket, valvetronic seal, etc. This is will get me by for another 2-3 years hopefully before I bite the bullet in a OEM valve cover.